Top 3 Ingredients That Should Be in Your Mineral Sunscreen to Protect and Nourish Your Skin Naturally (and the top 3 that shouldn’t)
As a sunscreen company that sells facial mineral sunscreens that are as aesthetic as they are protective, you can probably guess that we are big fans of mineral sunscreens. However, not all mineral sunscreens are created equally.
So what sets a great mineral sunscreen apart from the rest? It’s all about the ingredients. These are our top 3 picks for what makes for a truly great mineral sunscreen and our top 3 ingredients that should never be included. Make sure to read to the end to see what we do not recommend be included in your mineral SPF. We 100% guarantee you will be surprised.
Top 3 Ingredients to be Included in Your Mineral Sunscreen
1. Zinc Oxide
Zinc oxide is the hero ingredient in all mineral sunscreens. You cannot have an effective mineral sunscreen without it and contrary to what is very popular in the sunscreen industry, you cannot have a formula with less than 20% and have effective protection. We know that is a controversial statement as many big brands will have formulas that exclusively contain titanium dioxide with no zinc oxide or will use low concentrations of zinc oxide of less than 15%. These formulas will still claim to have good UVA protection by way of a labelled PA rating of 3-4 plus signs so what’s going on?
Zinc oxide is an insoluble particle that is effective at protecting all the way from UVB through short wave UVA into long wave UVA and into visible light. Compared to most ‘chemical’ UV filters, it’s absolutely huge in size, even if its considered nano sized. Most of its activity works by absorption, i.e. it takes UV light and changes it to a harmless form of heat (about 95% of its activity). The remaining 5% of its activity however works by reflection, which is why it’s sometimes referred to as a physical ‘block’. You can argue the term ‘physical’ is misleading or inaccurate. However, this 5% mode of reflection and light scattering does make it excellent at long wave UVA and visible light protection.
As to why some brands use considerably less zinc oxide and still get disproportionately high SPF’s and PA ratings, we recommend reading our report on SPF boosters and their impact on zinc oxide sunscreens.-zinc-oxide-concentration-comparison We recommend consumers use a quick ‘back-of-envelope’ calculation to see what their realistic SPF and UVA protection factor should be of their zinc oxide only, all-mineral sunscreen:
To calculate the realistic SPF of your Zinc Oxide only sunscreen: Take the declared Concentration of zinc oxide (in the Active Ingredient Section) and multiply by 2, e.g. 10% zinc oxide would have a realistic SPF 20
To calculate the realistic UVA Protection Factor of your Zinc Oxide only sunscreen: Take the declared Concentration of zinc oxide (in the Active Ingredient Section) and divide by 2, e.g. 10% zinc oxide would have a realistic UVA Protection Factor of 5.
Key Benefits of zinc oxide (20% or more):
Broad-spectrum UV protection
Anti-inflammatory properties
Gentle on sensitive skin
2. Silicone
Silicone has operated in a grey zone in the clean beauty and naturally derived ingredient space for a while but we are big advocates for their use in mineral sunscreen formulations. They should not be confused with siloxanes, these are a form of modified silicones to be lightweight and volatile (i.e. flash off the skin when applied). Siloxanes and not silicones are regulated and restricted in the EU and Canada due to their potential for building up in water systems. Silicones do not have these concerns and they can degrade into their naturally occurring component silica.
Silicones in skincare and specifically mineral sunscreens are helpful in being inert ingredients, i.e. not likely to create skin sensitivities or allergies. They are not occlusive like mineral oil or petrolatum. In fact, its their perfect ability to let in the right amount of vapour that makes them ideal for use in specialized bandages for improved skin healing and are preferred by dermatologists.
In sunscreens, they help us disperse the large particles of zinc oxide to give the best SPF protection. They also help with smooth blending on the skin. Our mineral sunscreens will become transparent if they are sufficiently rubbed in. It’s therefore crucial that we formulate our sunscreens to have enough play time on the skin so that someone can blend them in while also make sure they do absorb and not feel greasy.
Key Benefits:
Soothing and helps maintain a healthy skin barrier
Helps disperse zinc oxide from a formulations POV
Not occlusive like mineral oil or petrolatum
3. Cholesterol
Cholesterol might not be the first skincare ingredient you think of, but we predict it will have its moment in 2025. Sterols and cholesterols are naturally occurring lipids that build up skin integrity and provide deep hydration. They are used naturally in our skin as a pro-vitamin D precursor that is then converted into Vitamin D upon sun exposure. They are perfect synergistic ingredients to pair with UV filters for effective protection and also support a healthy skin barrier and prevent melanogenesis (skin hyperpigmentation).
Key Benefits:
Deep hydration
Reduces skin irritation
Synergistic protection with UV filters and prevention of hyperpigmentation
Top 3 Ingredients that Should Never be Included in Your Mineral Sunscreen
1. Butyloctyl Salicylate and Tridecyl Salicylates
These two ingredients derived from salicylic acid have become widespread in their use of both mineral and ‘chemical’ sunscreen formulations. Formulators at large sunscreen brands have openly admitted to using these ingredients to allow them to boost the labelled SPF while using less zinc oxide. These issue with these specific SPF boosters are many. They are modified version of the ‘chemical’ UV filter octisalate and thus cannot be used in true all-mineral sunscreen formulas. They increase the SPF by attenuating light like octisalate but also by gaming the in-vivo tests used for SPF and UVA (PA rating system) by minimizing skin redness and pigmentation. However, they do very little to actually protect against UVA, all the while letting formulators use less zinc oxide, the ingredient that actually provides UVA protection.
There is also concern that these ingredients are metabolized in the body into salicylic acid. They can be used at high concentrations of 6-10% and can be used in combination with other salicylates up to a total of 30%. They can be used in sunscreens that are used daily on the entire body and should therefore be used with caution by pregnant women and on children.
For a full look at the impact of butyoctyl salicylate and tridecyl salicylate as SPF boosters, read here.
For a full look at their safety for pregnant women and for children, read here.
Key Issues:
Modified versions of the ‘chemical’ UV filter octisalate
Boost the labelled SPF of a sunscreen but not it’s actual UVA protection
Not pregnancy safe or safe for kids under the age of 4
2. Bisabolol
Bisabolol is another very common sunscreen ingredient (take a look at your sunscreen inactive ingredients). It’s typically naturally derived from chamomile and marketed as an anti-inflammatory ingredient. Most people are therefore surprised that we would never formulate with it in a sunscreen. How could a chamomile derivative be a bad thing?
Unfortunately, bisabolol has been combined with ingredients like Vitamin E and argan oil to reduce skin redness. Typically there is no issue with reducing skin redness, however, this is the endpoint that is used to assess the SPF protection of sunscreens. Clinicians use skin redness to assign sunscreens a SPF value in comparison to a control sunscreen. Bisabolol is marketed as a raw material to increase the labelled SPF of sunscreens (under tradenames like Sunboost ATB) and the PA rating of a sunscreen. However, it does not actually attenuate UV light. Similar to butyloctyl salicylate and tridecyl salicylate, bisabolol is very often used to reduce the amount of actual UV filter used while boosting the labelled SPF. Unfortunately, users may be using a product that provides less actual UV protection.
Key issues:
Games the in-vivo (on person) test used to give SPF and UVA values
3. Niacinamide, Allantoin, Aloe Vera
These are three of the most ubiquitous ingredients in all of skincare, let alone sunscreens. There so popular that you could argue a person does not need to use a routine where every step includes a product that has niacinamide in it. While there is nothing innately harmful in these ingredients on their own, we recommend avoiding them in sunscreens. These are again typically used in a cocktail type mixture where their anti-inflammatory capabilities translate into anti-redness ingredients that are again used to bolster the SPF and PA rating artificially. When these are included in a mineral sunscreen, it becomes very tricky to decipher how much of the labelled SPF comes from actual UV protection and how much comes from the skin not turning red during the SPF test.
If you find these ingredients to be beneficial to your skin’s health, we recommend looking for skincare and not sunscreen products that contain them. We would also argue there is a full world of ingredients ranging from anti-oxidants, anti-inflammatories, to sterols and carotenoids that offer a diverse mix of solutions to your skincare needs. Nutritionally, you would never eat a plate full of broccoli every single day. Our best nutrition happens when we ‘eat the rainbow’ and the same can be said for our skincare. We recommend choosing a wide range of ingredients to best support your skin health.
Why Choose Mineral Sunscreens with These Ingredients?
Mineral sunscreens enriched with these ingredients offer the perfect balance of protection and nourishment. They shield your skin from harmful UV rays while providing hydration, antioxidants, and soothing benefits. Whether you have sensitive, acne-prone, or dry skin, these ingredients ensure your sunscreen works with your skin, not against it.
Final Thoughts
When shopping for mineral sunscreen, always check the ingredient list to ensure it includes these top performers. Prioritize products use high concentrations of zinc oxide for broad-spectrum protection, and look for nourishing additives like silicone and cholesterol for a well-rounded skincare experience.
Browse our collection of mineral sunscreens here to find the perfect fit for your skincare routine.